There are several lacing or thonging styles which though form part of the construction of the article, also improve the aesthetic appeal of the article. Some of these styles are discussed in this article.
1. Oversew/ whip stitch
After the holes or slits are created, the thong is passed through the first hole from the underside of the leather and then passed on the top. It follows continuously in that manner till the process is complete.
2. Oversew with two colours
This lacing technique is similar to the oversew technique. However, the difference is that two different coloured thongs are used alternately.
In this process, a different coloured strip of leather is ‘laid’ in skived and stuck in position between the slits and the edges of the leather before the oversew lacing is done on it.
4. Criss-cross/ Cross loop/ Baseball X stitch
Two rows of thongs are used for creating this style. The first row is worked from left to right while the second row is rather worked from right to left. However, intermediate slits or holes are left when the first row is worked on for the second row to fill them in creating the criss-cross pattern.
5. Close criss-cross
This is an oversew thonging style that is worked in an alternate direction like the criss-cross technique. Two different coloured rows of thongs are used.
Slits are cut at right angles to the edge of the leather instead of it being parallel with it spaced at equal distances. A flat needle is used to pass the leather strip in alternately in an ‘over-one’, ‘under-one’ manner to create a running thong.
7. Point de Ganse
In this technique, the strip of leather is passed through the first slit and down through the second leaving a small loop. The thong is then pulled up from the underside and passed through the small loop created from the top, pulling the stitch tight.
As the name suggests, slanting thongs slants to the right. Two rows of slits are created in a slanting direction on the surface of the leather piece with a thonging tool. The thong is passed from the underside through the first slit at the left-hand end of the top row and down through the slit in the bottom row. It is then brought up through the second slit in the top row and down through the next slit in the bottom row.
9. Oversew and Buttonhole
This is a combination of oversewing and buttonhole styles which are done using two thongs of contrasting colours. One of the thongs is used in creating the oversew thonging. After that, the buttonhole is created. It involves threading the thong through one of the overcast stitches already made. It is then passed down through the bottom of the next stitch of oversewing pulling it through, leaving a small loop. Bring the thong up through the small loop and pull it tight. Pass the thong down through the loop while pulling the stitch tight.
10. Slanting and threading
Two contrasting colours of thongs are used. One row of the thong is made in the slanting thonging style. The other thong is threaded under and over the slanting stitches.